Get an Enclosure for Your Own PCB 3D Printed
You designed a board. Now it needs a box. Upload your enclosure file, or send the board outline and we can draw one. We print it in the USA, from one to many.
Made in the USAMost orders ship in 3 to 5 business daysPrice online in seconds
Upload your enclosure file. See your price.
Drop in your STL, 3MF or STEP file. Or paste a link to a model. You get an instant price in seconds. No login.
Your file stays private. No login needed.
Drop your STL, STEP, 3MF, OBJ, or ZIP to get an instant price
No login. No sales call. STL, STEP, 3MF, and OBJ get an instant price. Up to 100 MB. Drop more than one, a folder, or a whole ZIP to quote a project.
Got a ZIP from a model site? Send the whole thing. We help you pick what to print.
Biggest part: 256 mm (10 in) on any side. Very large parts in some materials get a quick review first. Bigger parts can be split.
Your file stays private. We sign NDAs on request.
Upload a part or paste a link to see your price. No account needed.
Need PA-CF, TPU, or a big run? Request a review.
Three ways to start
Most people land here in one of three spots. Pick yours.
- You have a file. Drop it in the box at the top of this page. STL, 3MF and STEP all work.
- You found a model online. Paste its link in the same box. We read the maker's license first, and we print it only if the license allows it.
- You have only a board. Send the outline and the parts that stick up. We can draw the enclosure around it.
Standoffs, screws and lids
A board sits on short posts called standoffs, with a screw through each hole. Print the posts as part of the box. Tie each post to a wall with a small rib so it cannot snap off.
For a lid you open often, press in a brass heat-set insert. Plastic threads wear out. Most M3 inserts want a hole near 4.0 mm. Tell us the insert you buy and we size the hole to it.
Leave a gap of about 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm around a lid, or it will bind.
Cutouts, ports and tolerance
FDM is not a machined part. A hole can land a hair small, so a tight USB jack may need a test print. Our notes on tolerance say how much. Flag the one cutout that must be exact and we hold it closest.
Round the edge of any cable hole, because a sharp edge cuts a wire over time. A small notch beside the hole holds a zip tie.
Heat, vents and sensors
A closed box holds heat in. Print vents as rows of short slots, with each slot near 10 mm or less across, so they print clean.
The long guide to walls, lips, gaskets and fits is on our page about custom enclosures. This page is for getting your file printed.
Big boxes
A part can be up to 256 mm on any side. A bigger box can be split into pieces that fit together. Plan the joint with screws and inserts, or a tongue and groove. We print the pieces. We do not join them.
What do you have, and what should you send?
Your own board has no standard size, so the file is the whole job. Find your row.
An enclosure file
- What to send
- STL, 3MF or STEP
- What to know
- Drop it in the box at the top of this page. Add a note about the cutout that must be exact.
A board and no enclosure
- What to send
- Board outline, screw holes, tall parts, connector sides
- What to know
- A drawing, a STEP file of the board or clear measurements all work. We can draw the enclosure. A person prices that work by hand. See Concept to Part.
A board with a screen or buttons
- What to send
- Where each one sits, and how high
- What to know
- Each screen, button and switch needs its own cutout. Height decides how thick the wall can be there.
A sensor or a wireless node
- What to send
- What the sensor must see, and where the antenna is
- What to know
- A sensor needs air or light, so a vent or a window beats a sealed box. Check your board maker's notes for the antenna area.
| What you have | What to send | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| An enclosure file | STL, 3MF or STEP | Drop it in the box at the top of this page. Add a note about the cutout that must be exact. |
| A board and no enclosure | Board outline, screw holes, tall parts, connector sides | A drawing, a STEP file of the board or clear measurements all work. We can draw the enclosure. A person prices that work by hand. See Concept to Part. |
| A board with a screen or buttons | Where each one sits, and how high | Each screen, button and switch needs its own cutout. Height decides how thick the wall can be there. |
| A sensor or a wireless node | What the sensor must see, and where the antenna is | A sensor needs air or light, so a vent or a window beats a sealed box. Check your board maker's notes for the antenna area. |
Which plastic should you pick?
Match the plastic to where the box lives. We print in three plastics for these boxes.
Pick this for most boxes. It is tough, it handles water and shop chemicals, and it holds up outdoors better than PLA.
Watch for: It has some give. Keep walls at 2 mm or more, and 3 mm on a big box.
Pick this for a bench prototype or a box that stays indoors. It costs less and the detail comes out clean.
Watch for: It softens in heat and goes brittle in sun. Keep it away from heaters and sunny windows.
Pick this for soft parts: a gasket for a lid, feet, a bumper, a cable grommet.
Watch for: It bends. Do not use it for the box body. TPU goes to a person for a quote.
You see your instant price the moment you upload. TPU goes to a person, who prices the job. A person reviews your request and follows up by email. Full details are on the materials page.
Can you print a box I found online?
Maybe. A file being free to download does not make it free to print for sale. Some makers say no to commercial use.
So we check. Paste the link, and we read the license. If it allows commercial use, we print it. If you made the file or own the rights, tell us when you order. We keep a record of what we read.
Prototype first, then a run
There is no minimum order. Print one box, put your board in, and see what needs to move. Fix the file and order the run. The shape does not change between one and many. Our page on low-volume production walks through when printing still beats a mold.
We sign a mutual NDA on request. You get the printed plastic parts only. We do not install boards or put boxes together. Parts ship as printed, with layer lines you can see. Most orders ship in 3 to 5 business days. Shipping is shown before you pay.
About names and licenses
We name no board maker on this page. A model you find online has its own license, and we read it before we print a linked design.
Common questions
- Can you 3D print an enclosure for my own PCB?
- Yes. Upload your enclosure file in the box at the top of this page. You get an instant price in seconds. TPU goes to a person for a quote. We print in the USA and ship it. There is no minimum order.
- I have a board but no enclosure file. What do I send?
- Send the board outline, the screw holes, the parts that stick up and which sides have connectors. A drawing, a STEP file or clear measurements all work. We can draw the enclosure. A person prices design work by hand.
- What plastic is best for an electronics enclosure?
- PETG for most boxes. It is tough and it holds up outdoors better than PLA. PLA is fine for a bench prototype or a box that stays indoors. TPU is for gaskets and feet, not for the box body.
- Do you sign an NDA?
- Yes. We sign a mutual NDA on request. Your file stays private. We print it, we never share or publish it, and we delete it when you ask.
- Can I order one box to test the fit first?
- Yes. There is no minimum order. Print one, check the fit, fix the file and order the run.
- Do you assemble the board into the box?
- No. We print the plastic parts only. You add the board and the screws. We do not assemble parts.
- Can I get a printed box from an STL I downloaded?
- Yes, when the license lets us. Paste the link and we read it. If you made the file, say so when you order.
See your price in the next 60 seconds.
Upload your STL. Made in the USA, shipped in days.